Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned bait maker there is always more you can learn and the potential to discover new secrets is always ongoing because even top fish scientists admit they are far from knowing it all! To improve your readymade baits or be able to make homemade baits that perform equally or even better than the vast majority of readymade baits takes technical knowledge and loads of field testing on a range of waters right through the year. But one thing is for sure – we all have to start somewhere; so why not start with big fish bait and read on for more!

Making small balls of baits containing protein for fish like carp and catfish goes back many centuries if not back into millennia. In far more recent times at least in the fifties and sixties guys like Fred Wilton brought about a sharper focus on which elements are essential to fish and how when these are combined in the form of high nutritive baits would improve your bait potential for catching loads of fish as a result. Homemade nutritional baits can be created that combine aspects of highly instant baits without becoming repellent to fish and homemade baits made like this work really great against the popular ready made baits!

Back in the days when fishing was extremely secretive the original HNV baits were built around caseins and other caseinates that provided extremely high levels of protein and stimulating and attractive amino acids that naturally turn fish onto feeding, although many other additives and ingredients were also used including liver, fish and yeast powders and meals etc. In the earlier days of carp fishing it was the milk proteins that had a dramatic impact on big fish catches for those making such potent homemade baits as readymade baits did not exist at that time and it was in later decades that fish meals and bird food baits and other combinations that really took precedence and making unique homemade baits is still incredibly popular – with good reason!

Although many bait companies still subsist by selling the kinds of bait recipes that were in common use even in the sixties and seventies HNV baits can be made using many ingredients that were not available then that have extremely high potency impacts on fish behaviours. Fish instinctively detect substances within their natural foods and in some baits to as much as a few parts in a billion and mechanisms within creatures tell them to feed on that substance or not dependent on factors such as essential nutritional requirements of the individual fish at that moment, bioactivity of ingredients, liquids additives etc and habit-forming effects, palatability and so on. Making unique homemade HNV baits really has proven to be a great leveller of fortunes for many anglers who fish in extremely competitive situations for big much sought-after fish and using popular ready made baits can be a disadvantage if the fish you are seeking to catch have reason to be wary of those baits perhaps due to previously being hooked on them by other anglers; with unique homemade baits this situation is impossible!

The best start point in designing baits is knowledge of fish essential needs, internal workings and how to manipulate these and feeding behaviours and habits using the most suitable substances as bait; this is why just knowing a bit about an ingredient or the odd additive or flavour is not going to be much of a massive advantage! Getting to know much more deeply about fish internally is like building muscle – the more you build the more power you can gain – in this case in manipulating fish feeding locations and intensities and modes of feeding in your personal favour! As they say; knowledge is power and in the case of fishing baits it is amazing how many anglers really do not get this; so many go for the short-term solution and expect miracles from readymade baits they do not understand and therefore cannot exploit to their full potential – no wonder the average carp angler using popular readymade baits is only getting average (or worse than average) results!

Once you have discovered a great deal about fish and their inner needs and workings then selecting bait ingredients is much easier and you can choose how you design your baits will masses of confidence because your baits will be built on what fish response strongly to and not just your personal preferences and guesswork! I began making homemade baits in the early seventies when literally everybody else was too and it was very hard to get information about the internal workings and interactions of bait substances and fish but I enthusiastically pursued this passion for decades to the point where many bait company bosses ask me for ingredients and bait reviews, articles on their products and for my bait secrets ebooks and personal advice. Things are much easier today in terms of finding uniquely stimulating ingredients and additives because the internet has provided endless suppliers of ingredients, additives etc; some can from bait companies but many substances come from other sources and using what bait companies do not sell is a very serious edge indeed in making homemade baits from particles, ground baits or pastes and boilies etc!

Years ago when so many anglers used milk protein baits these were mostly used in small amounts because they normally worked very fast and effectively compared to other baits of the time and it was just not necessary to pile in loads and loads of bait to catch loads of big fish! The original HNV baits were so high in protein they could fill fish up prematurely before being caught and also because the ingredients were costly it was far from the done thing to introduce 10 kilograms of free bait at the beginning of a fishing session unlike many anglers do as a habit today! Introducing many kilograms of bait really was a product of the use of much cheaper bird foods and fish meals and other forms of nutritional baits; but always remember you only need one bait in the right place on a suitable rig to hook a fish and you certainly do not need to make many kilograms of the most potent homemade baits to equal the results of the vast majority of the most expensive ready made baits!

In making homemade baits and adapting established ready made baits to give them a new lease of live and improved performance takes a good degree of knowledge not just of the insider secrets of bait substances but of the fish – and the water also; such bait-making information leads to being able to artificially create unique fish feeding opportunities that lead to multiple captures of big fish -even against more experienced or more talented anglers! As in my ebooks my homemade baits have now caught me 4 UK lake records including a leather carp over 46 pounds and a mirror carp of over 49 pounds plus over thirty catfish caught in the UK weighing between 68 pounds and 120 pounds; homemade baits really work and this is why I am so enthusiastic about getting the word out – plus they can save you a fortune and give you even more confidence and satisfaction than any readymade bait ever will! Now for some homemade food bait recipe ideas to get you started on the road to bait-making success that has a few alternative features and performance benefits – for big fish!

This bait is not rocket science but explaining science behind aspects of it could be quite involved but needless to say this starter bait will catch big fish! The bulk of the bait is low temperature fish meal with a few binding additions and extras to boost other things such as nutritional value, bait palatability, improve digestion and bait performance, and to make the bait a little different to standard readymade baits! It should be stated here that this is not an absolute bait and it is flexible in amounts, used or other additions, or ingredient availability and according to your pocket (or your own preferences; it is certainly not optimised in terms of digestion for example, but it will catch big fish (of that there is no doubt!)

7 ounces of low temperature fish meal. 2 ounces of calcium caseinate. 1 ounce of 90 mesh casein. 2 ounces of CLO. 1 ounce of blood plasma. 1 ounce of hydrolysed poultry protein. 1 ounce of blue cheese powder. 1 ounce of chopped fennel seeds.

You might make this homemade mix using eggs plus liquid kelp complex and shellfish extract for instance plus perhaps a small dose of triple-filtered pure salmon oil plus a little krill oil to boost internal impacts. You might want to use flavours, palatants, and appetite stimulators etc; try CC Moore Ultrasweet with corn sweet syrup for instance plus maybe some geranium essential oil mixed with eucalyptus and you might use a range of suppliers from on-line bait companies to your local health store and supermarkets and so on. (For much more detailed helpful information on making, adapting, designing and boosting all your baits see my dedicated website Baitbigfish right now!)

By Tim Richardson.

Now why not use this chance to multiply your catches for life with these unique fishing bibles: Big (http://www.baitbigfish.com) carp baits secrets, and Big carp flavours and feeding triggers secrets, plus Big carp and catfish bait secrets! For these and much more now visit Baitbigfish the home of the world-wide proven homemade bait making and readymade bait success bibles!

Making Homemade Carp and Catfish Boilies for Beginners and Big Fish! is a post from: Article Guides

In compliance with the Gun Control Act of 1968, all individuals and companies that wish to manufacture or sell guns must get a federal firearms license from the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.

There are a number of classifications when it comes to getting a license.

Each license is valid for a period of three years and is non-transferable.

There are eleven classifications of federal firearms license. Each classification is different from the other and is assigned only to those whose need matches.

It is normal for some classes to be more popular than the others. These two classes are the most sought after of the licenses. The Class 1 of licenses is for people who want to become gun dealers or gunsmiths.

On the other hand, people who wish to become pawnbrokers will need to get the second classification or the Class 2.

The next type of federal firearms license or the Class 3 is handed out to those people who are interested in collecting antique guns.

These people must only purchase guns out of a special interest and not to use them in sporting or any defensive or offensive act. Most guns that fit in this category are what we call Curio and Relic Firearms.

A gun may be considered as Curio and Relic upon the following considerations: If by the time the owner seeks a federal firearms license, it was already made for more than 50 years.

Or it is collected because of its monetary equivalence that is usually derived from its make, rarity, uniqueness and part in history.

The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives have set a few qualifications on obtaining a federal firearms license. The first qualification is that an applicant must be of legal age.

Even if you grew up handling guns, if you are not at least 21 years old, you will not be given a license. Your record must also be clean of illegal use of firearms. – 35634

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Bowie knives come in several different options where handles are concerned. Some of these materials are designed to invoke the frontier heritage of these knives. Others are designed to provide an elegant and eye-catching feature to the knife. The most practical handles are designed with durability, grip characteristics and balance in mind. One’s hand size will affect which handle is appropriate, as will the uses toward which the knife is put.

Many handles are made out of wood. Wood is durable, it can be easily crafted into different designs and is relatively inexpensive. Walnut, Oak and other hardwoods represent some of the most popular choices where knife handles are concerned. Wood handles are usually fastened to the tang of the blade with rivets or bolts. Either way, they provide very reliable and long service to their users. Wood handles need to be protected against moisture and dryness. For knives used for hunting, wood handles may present a danger of slippage when they become wet.

Metals are another popular option for Bowie knife handles. Metals are very strong, light and offer the potential of providing a lifetime of service. They are usually scored with patterns that make them easier to grasp. They also have the advantage of being resistant to corrosion, depending upon the metals employed in their manufacture. Metal handles are found on both inexpensive and very expensive Bowies.

Metal handles are obviously appealing for those who want a sturdy knife. Bowie knives with metal handles also benefit from the light weight of most metals, relative to their strength. These handles are usually scored to provide extra gripping power. The handles can hold up to most any abuse and can easily last for years. They are usually fastened to the blade in much the same way as are wooden handles. They may lose some grip when they become wet, just as do wood and bone handles.

Composite handles are generally found on the most advanced and high-end Bowie knives. These handles are very strong and, usually, they have a soft and scored surface that provides excellent grip, even when the knife is wet. These are also among the longest-lasting of handle options. Some handles come with leather wrappings, which serve to increase the safety and offer a different look to a Bowie. Leather-wrapped handles are also found on some of the more expensive models of Bowies, just as are composite handles.

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Handles for Bowie Knives is a post from: Article Guides

Each and every individual or company that is interested in manufacturing or selling guns must get a federal firearms license as stipulated by the Gun Control Act of 1968. In obtaining a federal firearms license, an applicant must go to the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives.

There are a number of classifications when it comes to getting a license.

A federal firearms license may be used for a period of three years and is non-transferable.

You can choose from eleven classes of federal firearms license. You will have to find the license that fits how you will be handling firearms.

Of course, some classes are more popular than the others. People who wish to become gun dealers or gunsmiths will have to apply for the first classification of federal firearms license or Class 1.

On the other hand, people who wish to become pawnbrokers will need to get the second classification or the Class 2.

Meanwhile, those people who wish to collect antique guns are not exempted from getting a license. They must get the Class 3 federal firearms license.

Some firearms that are collected are the Curio and Relic guns.

Guns are classified as Curio and Relic firearms if they were manufactured for more than 50 years during the time that the license was sought.

The reasons for collecting a Curio and Relic gun is usually because it has a high appraisal which stems from its make, uniqueness, rareness or association with historical figures.

In obtaining a federal firearms license, you would have to meet a few qualifications. To start off, you must be at least 21 years old.

Even if you grew up handling guns, if you are not at least 21 years old, you will not be given a license. Your record must also be clean of illegal use of firearms.

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All You Need To Know About The Federal Firearms Licence is a post from: Article Guides

A scrape is a great-circle or oval of exposed dirt that is 6 to 7 feet in diameter. To see scrapes or rubs near or on the trail will indicate that you are in buck territory. A buck passing thru his territory will check his scrape for other deer that have recently been in the area. A qualified hunter will spend every minute possible in the woods because in the rut deer are moving almost all day.

A different method in finding a buck area is to find a rub line. A rub line is a general trail that bucks will be keen on for years and use the smaller trees for cleaning their antlers of velvet. Look for a well worn deer trail with rubs and study the relationship between the trail, and the nearest bedding locations and food sources. Normally the closer you are to bedding area, the better chances you will see a deer. The rubs will expand your odds that it may be a buck.

The spacing of tracks from the heart of the trail determines the size of the deer. Old heavy bucks tend to walk with their hooves spaced wider apart than yearlings. Deer tracks can help you determine the gender and size of the animal with a little experience and observation. Keep in mind that the size of deer and their tracks will vary from different region.

They tend to point their toes in the direction they are traveling. Bucks generally point their toes outward from the center line of travel. Bucks often lag their hind hoof as opposed to stepping in the tracks that their front feet have made. An intersection of 2 or 3 trails increase your odds for deer. If the rut is on a breeding buck, it may be more likely to use this trail hoping to find an eager doe.

When scouting deer tracks in snow, always determine which deer is dragging his feet. Bucks will leave drag marks in leaf litter or light snow, but don’t be fooled by deep snow as all deer will drag their feet under these conditions. If you are interested in tracking a certain deer, it is advisable to get out early in the day after a night snow.

The nature of bucks also may help in determining what type of trail you are looking at beneath your feet. Bucks will more often be in heavy cover and travel with a persistence, commonly in straighter lines. Also try to wander and roam through the woods. An advantageous deer hunter learns the traits of patience, dedication, and observation. Throughout the year, deer will use dissimilar routes at different times for distinct purpose.

Remember that fence and post lines serve as natural routes of travel for deer. Deer trails will often run along fences for great distances. This explains why you may find shed antlers along fence lines. A trophy buck will often use wooden fence posts for rubs. It seems that a great post provides the resistance a big buck needs for a rub.

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Distinguish Between Doe And Buck Trail is a post from: Article Guides

Even the most well-made Bowie knife can become bent if misused. These knives have thick blades, which accounts for a great deal of their utility. They also have very heavy blades, which makes it tempting for some users to employ their Bowie knife as an impromptu prying tool, hatchet or other device. While the rugged Bowie design is capable of handling such tough jobs, it’s inevitable that the blade will be damaged from these tasks.

Sometimes, however, the blade on Bowie knives will become bent. Whether or not this is fixable will depend on the severity of the bend, the location of the bend and the quality of the steel. It will also depend on whether or not the original price of the knife merits money being spent on fixing the blade after such damage. If the financial justification is there, fixing these knives usually requires some professional assistance.

A Bowie knife made of lower-grade steel can sometimes be bent back into shape with a simple leverage device. Sometimes, it will have to be heated and bent back into shape in a vice or on an anvil. While this may restore the straightness of the blade, there’s a good chance that the blade will be wrecked by this, as well. This is because of the temper of the blade, a feature which gives it a great deal of its utility.

A Bowie knife blade is tempered via a precise process of heating and cooling. Improperly heating the blade can destroy the temper. This will affect the edge-holding properties of the blade, the strength of the blade and its flexibility. In most cases, an individual who tries to straighten their own blade risks a ruined blade or a broken blade, which can cause serious injuries when they snap. Like all fine cutting tools, a Bowie benefits from having repairs done by an individual who understands the subtleties of good steel.

Remember that Bowie knives may be durable and reliable, but this doesn’t mean that they can take infinite abuse. They have to be maintained and they have to be used sensibly. The heavy blade may be able to hack through a small tree or piece of firewood, but this will ruin the knife. Bending a bent blade back oneself may ruin it, too.

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Bowie Knives and Bent Blades is a post from: Article Guides

Guys, you know exactly how you are. You jump on your ATV to head out for a day of hunting, and you go a little fast. You hit a few extra bumps here and there. The next thing you know your binoculars are flying off the seat. Or maybe they just swung around your neck for third time on their strap. You might even experience the worst case, and they swing up at just the wrong time and tangle into the branch you ducked under on the trail. You could keep those binoculars and your neck safe with a bino harness.

A binocular harness completely changes the way you carry your binoculars. They are no longer swinging around, and uncomfortable. Your binoculars are exactly in the right place. Up front, ready for action, and out of the way. The worst place for your binoculars is stashed away in a bag. How many times have you been heading down the trail and saw activity. We all know animals don’t wait for you to unpack, and prepare. It is look now, or forever miss the opportunity.

It doesn’t matter whether you purchased Nikon Binoculars, Bushnell, or another brand, a harness is very low cost. You can grab a Nikon Prostaff binocular harness for under $25. The great thing it is not limited to working with only one brand, or even just binoculars. Hook up your camera to the binocular harness strap, and you can carry them wildly down the trail with you. During those off seasons, you can always hunt and document with a camera. Learning more about your favorite hunting areas will improve your next hunting season.

One of the biggest reason most hunters put away the binoculars is because they are uncomfortable. This is especially true when you are zipping around on the ATV. The swinging binoculars become a pain in the neck. If the binoculars are held firmly in place, but easily accessible, you would keep them on. Your binoculars harness will keep them from swinging, plus gets the weight off your neck. You’ll be spreading the weight across more points of your body, making the binoculars feel light, and comfortable.

The important thing is the speed of access. When they are right at your finger tips you are going to have more opportunities to use your binoculars, and get a better understanding of animal movements on your hunting grounds. You bought binoculars to use, not to sit in storage on the back of the ATV, put them where they belong, front and center.

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Bino Harness – Protect Your Binoculars From A Wild Ride is a post from: Article Guides

You are busy walking through the woods, searching out unique birds. You hear their calls, and hear noise in the trees. You kneel down to get a better angle around the tree, and your binoculars swing out and smack the tree. It wasn’t loud, but you hear that familiar sound of birds taking flight, and then silence. If you had been using a binocular harness, your binoculars would have stayed in place, silently.

It is not just the birds disappearing you should be worried about. It is very easy to damage a pair of binoculars out in the field when they swing around on your neck. Especially when you start wandering around in the trees and brush trying to spot an elusive bird. Your binoculars can easily swing out and brush a stick, a thorn, or other obstruction and suddenly have a nasty scratch across the lens. When you’re wearing a binoculars harness, there is no swinging, the binoculars are safe against your chest, out of the way.

If you are like most bird watchers, you have two essential pieces of equipment, your binoculars and your camera. Both can be protected with the use of a binocular harness strap. It is a dual purpose strap and works great for either one. You can find straps customized for your Bushnell binoculars, or a Nikon Prostaff binocular harness. When you want to switch between your binoculars and camera, you need a safe fast way to get your binoculars out of the way. The easiest way is with the bino harness.

You should also think about the comfort and safety of your neck. You have probably experienced the neck fatigue from a full day of bird watching. The binoculars start to weigh on your neck, and the muscles tense up. A binocular harness keeps the weight on your shoulders and back, parts of your body which carry weight easily. You will finish the day of watching birds feeling great, no need to rub your neck all the way home.

It is amazing you don’t see more bird watchers using a binoculars harness. They are safer, more comfortable, and protect your investment over the cheap neck strap which came with your binoculars. The small investment will increase your enjoyment of bird watching. Often, a high quality binocular harness costs less than a new book. Your day in the woods will be much more enjoyable with the addition of a harness.

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Using A Binocular Harness Can Prevent Damage To Your Binoculars is a post from: Article Guides

Kai USA is one of the most recognizable manufacturers of knives. Its flagship Kershaw knives brands are reputable for their quality and have a fiercely loyal fan base. That’s why there would be a high level of expectation on the Kershaw Blur range of knives by anyone who has handled a Kershaw knife before. A casual look at the Kershaw Blur knife and one can tell that a significant amount of attention and detail has gone into enhancing the aesthetics of the knife while taking care not to compromise the effectiveness of the knife.

For starters, the grip tape used on the handle makes it difficult to slip. Normally, Kershaw knives take on a more natural shape which in itself serves the dual purpose of improving handling. Since the Kershaw Blur has taken on the more flat handle, the ability of the handle to grip well is important.

When you first pick up the knife you immediately notice how incredibly light the handle actually is, but then again it has been made from anodized aluminum, an extremely durable material used primarily in the aircraft manufacturing industry. This light weight handle has also resulted in the knife having a weight of approximately 4.2 ounces, even though it measures four and a half inches long.

Unlike the handle, the blade has been manufactured from high grade stainless steel in order to guarantee strength, and to prevent it from becoming damaged by corrosion. There’s also no need for a buyer to sharpen the knife when they purchase it because they are sharpened prior to being shipped. Another outstanding quality of the knife is that the blade retains its sharpness for a longer period of time than most other comparable knives.

The only thing that loyal fans may have something to moan about is that the new Kershaw Blur incorporates an integrated thumb stud rather than the usual trigger. In reality however, this change in design won’t cause any problems with regards to the usability of the knife, but instead, if you’re accustomed to the old design then you may find the thumb stud a little uncomfortable.

The good thing is that Kershaw Blur still retains the Speed Safe concept thus lowering the risk of one inadvertently cutting injuring themselves when handling the knife. In addition, the ability to open the blade with just one hand is retained.

It should also be mentioned that even though the blade has been manufactured from high quality stainless steel, that doesn’t mean that it’s impossible for it to rust. With that said, it’s not very likely unless your knife is stored primarily in an area that is excessively humid. For the average person however, the chance of seeing any rust appearing is minimal.

The choice of color from red, black and gray means one is not limited in color preferences. With a $60 to $65 price tag, the amount of value the Kershaw Blur knife delivers is worth the price. Kershaw Blur knives can be purchased from your local store as well as online.

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You’re walking through the brush, heading to your deer stand. You see some tracks and bend down to take a closer look, and smack, your binoculars come flying forward and smash through the brush. You quietly curse as you check the lenses to make sure you did not scratch them this time. A standard neck strap does nothing to prevent the wild swinging of your binoculars, if you want to protect your investment you need a binocular harness.

It’s not only when we bend over the binoculars come into danger. Every step we take with a neck strap they wave back and forth, seeking out a twig, stick, or other obstruction to get hung up on. Even when we are climbing up into the stand they swing around getting in our way. This is the kind of troubles a binocular harness solves. Your binoculars are held safely against your chest, out of the way, and not swinging around wildly.

If you’re like most deer hunters, your Bushnell or Nikon binoculars are an essential part of your day of hunting. You use them for spotting deer as they move through your hunting area. Watching for them to come into range, and into a clear line of sight for a shot. When you’re ready to switch to your rifle or bow, the last thing you need is binoculars swinging back into the way. When you lower your binoculars while wearing a binocular harness they are instantly back against your chest, out of the way. Your hands are free to prepare for your shot.

It’s not just hand freedom you should be concerned about. With a neck strap those binoculars might just swing and bump something else making noise. As soon as you hear that noise, you can just sit back down and relax, because so did the buck, he is off and running. A binocular harness is going to allow you faster motion with your binoculars, because you know they are not going to start swinging around.

Many hunters find a strap around their neck quickly becomes uncomfortable, especially as the strap slides around with the movement of the binoculars. A binocular harness changes the weight from your neck, onto your shoulders and around your back. You’ll be more comfortable for the entire morning hunt.

For the best safety, security, and better hunting, a binocular harness is a great aid in your hunting accessories.

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Using A Binocular Harness Can Save Your Binoculars From Disaster is a post from: Article Guides